Overeating in Pai, Part 2: Savory Eats

This is my third post about our recent 3-night trip up to Pai, a slow little mountain town that’s popular with the backpacker crowd and tourists seeking relaxation.  Like I said in my previous post about cakes, pies and coffees in Pai, about the only thing to do in Pai is eat!  I don’t want you to think we only ate sweets and drank coffee while we were in Pai – we had some savory Thai food too!

Our favorite spot in Pai was Charlie and Lek’s, a great little restaurant that also has cooking classes.  We found a dish there that we haven’t seen anywhere else in Thailand – Pad Thai made with shaved green papaya instead of noodles!  If pad thai and som tam got together and had a love child, it would be Green Papaya Pad Thai.  IT WAS SO GOOD, as shown by Kevin’s face in the photo below.

Green Papaya Pad Thai at Charlie & Lek's

Green Papaya Pad Thai at Charlie & Lek’s.  Kevin is bursting with excitement for this food.  Naturally, we returned three days in a row to get this dish.

Red Dragon Fruit Shake and Watermelon + Lime Shake at Charlie & Lek's

A Red Dragonfruit Shake and a Watermelon + Lime Shake at Charlie & Lek’s

Green Papaya Salad at Charlie & Lek's - so so so good.

Close up of the Green Papaya Salad at Charlie & Lek’s – so so so good.

We also enjoyed some delicious Thai food from Na’s Kitchen.  The pad see iew may have been the best we’ve had so far in Thailand.  We also continued our love affair with Som Tam at Na’s – it did not disappoint.

Mango Shake at Na's Kitchen

Mango Shake at Na’s Kitchen

Great Pad See Iew at Na's Kitchen

Great Pad See Iew at Na’s Kitchen

Som Tam on the left, Sticky Rice in the basket on the right, and Pad See Iew in the back.  All for $4.

Som Tam on the left, Sticky Rice in the basket on the right, and Pad See Iew in the back. All for $4.

We splurged and decided to get burgers one night after realizing we hadn’t had any beef for almost 2 months!  We visited Maya’s Burger Queen to satisfy our beef craving.

Maya's

Maya’s Burger Queen

Hawaiian Burger? Yes please.

Hawaiian Burger? Yes please.

The Hawaiian Burger, check out how big that pineapple slice is.

The Hawaiian Burger, check out how big that pineapple slice is.  Wish the beef patty had been bigger, but it was still super tasty!  And just $3.

Fried Chicken Burger - delicious.

Maya’s Fried Chicken Burger – delicious.

Homemade French Fries

And of course, we got Homemade French Fries

The cheapest meal we had in Pai was at Chew Xin Jai, a Chinese and Thai eatery with vegan and vegetarian food.  You get a plate full of rice with 1 scoop of food for 30 baht, 2 for 35 baht, 3 for 40 baht, or 4 for just 45 baht.  Cheap, filling, and pretty tasty.

Vegetarian food at Chew Xin Jai

Vegetarian food at Chew Xin Jai

No vacation in Thailand would be complete without some street food.  We started at the end of the main road in Pai and ate our way down the street back to our hotel on the last night.  It was fabulous.  Not pictured: an ear of corn on the cob that I scarfed down before we had time to take a photo…

Curry Puffs, 3 for 20 Baht

Curry Puffs, 3 for 20 Baht

We had a chicken BBQ skewer for 20 Baht

We had a chicken BBQ skewer for 20 Baht

We stopped for some Beef Curry and Rice from the Indian Food street vendor for 60 Baht

We stopped for some Beef Curry and Rice from the Indian Food street vendor for 60 Baht

She also had delicious Samosas for just 5 Baht apiece!

She also had delicious Samosas for just 5 Baht apiece!

We capped our street food dinner extravaganza off with a Chang beer at our hotel bar, where we sat and enjoyed some live music.

Chang Beer, what some locals lovingly call "elephant pee"

Chang Beer, what some locals lovingly call “elephant pee”.  WE MISS PACIFIC NORTHWEST MICROBREWS.

 

We want to hear from you!

What’s the best thing you’ve eaten on your international travels?  My favorite meal is still a cook-your-own-hot-plate meal we ate in a dark alleyway in Hanoi, Vietnam last year. We were sitting on tiny plastic stools at a tiny plastic table in a tiny little alley with motorbikes racing by.  Sometimes it’s more about the surroundings than the food!

 

Overeating in Pai, Part 1: Cakes, Pies and Coffees

We recently took a little 3-night trip up to Pai, Thailand to get away from the hustle and bustle of Chiang Mai.  Pai is a slow little mountain town that’s super popular with the backpacker crowd and tourists seeking relaxation.  There’s not a whole lot to do in Pai other than eat and relax, so we did as much eating as possible.  What could be more appropriate than overeating in a town whose name is pronounced “Pie”, anyway?  Also, writing about your overeating burns off some of those excess calories.  Ok, I may have just made that up, but I’m hoping it’s true.  Here are some snapshots of the tasty cakes, pies and coffees we sampled in Pai.  Stay tuned for a second blog post of all the non-sweets we had in Pai.

Cakes and Pies in Pai

First stop for some sweets was All About Coffee, a fun spot we found through some fellow traveler’s blogs online.

All About Coffee

All About Coffee

Kevin had the Binoffi Pai on the left, which was sort of like a banana cream pie with chocolate drizzle.  I had the Mango Cheese Pie on the right, which was pretty much a cheesecake with mangos on top.  Super delicious, but a bit expensive.

Binoffi Pai and Mango Cheese Pie

Binoffi Pai and Mango Cheese Pie

Next, we learned that Thai folks interpret “Ice Cream Sandwich” concept very literally.  We picked up this concoction below for just 10 Baht. It’s literally an ice cream sandwich – a piece of sandwich bread filled with scoops of coconut ice cream, a scoop of sweet sticky rice, sweet coconut drizzle, and peanuts.

The Infamous Thai-Style Ice Cream Sandwich

The Infamous Thai-Style Ice Cream Sandwich

We also made a visit to the Witching Well restaurant, which we’ve read has delicious cakes and desserts.  Their decor is also fun and unique.

Fun Decor at Witching Well

Fun Decor at Witching Well

Menu and Decor at Witching Well

Menu and Decor at Witching Well

Decor at Witching Well

Decor at Witching Well

Kevin ordered the Apple Crisp, and I got the carrot cake.  Both tasty, both cost 70 Baht.

Apple Crisp at Witching Well

Apple Crisp at Witching Well

Carrot Cake at Witching Well

Carrot Cake at Witching Well

We also stumbled onto this street vendor, serving up delicious coconut pancakes.  We got two with coconut + corn, and two with coconut + banana.  SO GOOD.  Don’t miss these if you’re in Pai – it was the best dessert we had there!

Coconut Pancakes

Coconut Pancakes – don’t miss these!

 

Coffees in Pai

All the cakes and pies made us lethargic.  Naturally, we sought out some high-caffeine high-sugar beverages as a pick me up.  During our visit to All About Coffee, we also snagged some tasty drinks.  Kevin got a Siphon Coffee, black, and I had an Upside Down Coffee, which is a shot of espresso on top of sweetened condensed milk.

Kevin's Siphon Coffee

Kevin’s Siphon Coffee

My Upside Down Coffee

My Upside Down Coffee

 

News Flash: Melanie is now addicted to coffee

News Flash: Melanie is now addicted to coffee

Kevin kicked back and relaxed at All About Coffee

This is as relaxed as Kevin gets, enjoying some reading at All About Coffee.

We discovered a little cafe called Cafein in the center of Pai with two rocking chairs right by the street.  This cafe is situated right across from a motorbike rental place, so we killed several hours watching brand new motorbike riders come up and shakily ride off on their newly rented motorbikes.  We saw some of them again later with knees and elbows wrapped in gauze!

Our favorite spot in Pai

Our favorite spot in Pai

Green Tea Latte at Cafein

Green Tea Latte at Cafein.  Spoiler alert – all that green coloring is not natural.  My tongue matched the drink after I finished it!

Iced Lattes at Cafein

Iced Lattes at Cafein

Wonderful Cafein

Wonderful Cafein

Another favorite spot was Cafe d’tist, just down the street from our hotel.  They had tasty iced drinks for just 50 baht, and we really liked their Iced Lattes and their fun decor.

Iced Latte at Cafe d'tist

Iced Latte at Cafe d’tist

Cafe d'tist

Cafe d’tist

Cute little rocking swan at Cafe d'tist

Cute little rocking swan at Cafe d’tist

Enjoying some Iced Lattes at Cafe d'tist

Enjoying another round of Iced Lattes at Cafe d’tist

A stray dog hanging out at Cafe d'tist

A stray dog hanging out at Cafe d’tist

Not all our caffeine came from coffee in Pai.  We also stopped by Art in Chai, a little coffee house that’s super popular with backpackers.  Art in Chai is known for their Masala Chai.  For each glass, the barista uses a mortar and pestle to freshly pound up all the spices that go into that cup.  We met a few people at Art in Chai who came to Pai on week-long vacation and are still here two years later.  A lot of people seem to come to Pai and just never leave!

Art in Chai, backpacker's paradise

Art in Chai, backpacker’s paradise

Masala Chais at Art in Chai

Masala Chai Teas at Art in Chai

 

I’m almost embarrassed to post all of this.  Yes, we were only in Pai for 3 nights, and yes, we really did eat all of these sweets.  If you could win a vacation award for eating cakes, pies and coffees, we definitely won on this trip!  YOLO, right?

We want to hear from you!

Where in the world have you had your best coffee?  There will always be a special place in my heart for Vietnamese coffee, which tastes almost like chocolate.

 

Tuesday Taste: Rice Cooker Banana Cake

Rice Cooker Banana Cake

Rice Cooker Banana Cake

What do you do when you’re an avid baker trapped in an apartment with no oven?  Improvise!  While it’s probably possible to throw some cake batter on the hot sidewalk outside to bake a cake, I decided to go with a slightly more sanitary alternative and try to bake in our rice cooker.  And what do you know, it actually worked out.

Our 10-cup Rice Cooker

Our 10-cup Rice Cooker

Friends and family know I’m obsessed with baking.  It is my own little form of meditation, and our tiny kitchen back home was full of cooking tools, baking pans and fun doodads.  Our kitchen here in Chiang Mai is sparsely stocked – we don’t have an oven, a mixer, measuring spoons, or even a full-sized measuring cup!  Using some creative math and a lot of google searches, here’s the recipe I used for Rice Cooker Banana Cake.  (Original recipe was sourced from this blog.)

Ingredients

Note: All “cup” measurements below were made using a rice cooker cup, which is smaller than a normal measuring cup!  I used creative estimation with a bottle of water to find that a normal measuring cup is 1.4 times larger than our rice cooker cup, and scaled the original recipe accordingly, yielding the ingredient amounts below.  I also estimated the quantities of baking powder and soda since I don’t have a teaspoon, and things turned out just fine!

3 eggs
3/4 rice cooker cups of sugar
110g butter (it’s best to just buy some new butter and try to eyeball this quantity based on how large the manufacture says your butter is.  Most butter here comes in 220g sticks, so I just used a half stick.)
1.8 rice cooker cups of flour
3/4 tsp baking powder
3/4 tsp baking soda
1 rice cooker cup of mashed bananas
Pinch of salt

Directions

Step 1: Gather your ingredients.  Plain ‘ol all purpose flour can be tough to track down in Chiang Mai.  Rice flour and cake flour were easy to find, but I had to go to the Rimping Supermarket to find all purpose flour.  Rimping is an upscale market in Chiang Mai that specializes in imported goods.  They also sell goldfish crackers!  And decent imported beer!  And all sorts of cheeses!  Heaven.

Have you ever heard of these brands? Me neither!

Have you ever heard of these brands? Me neither!

Butter!  This stick is 227 grams, so I used slightly less than half of it.

Butter! This stick is 227 grams, so I used slightly less than half of it.

Step 2: Stir the flour, baking soda, baking powder, and salt together in a large bowl.  Set aside.

This may or may not be 3/4 tsp.  I eyeballed it, and everything turned out ok!

This may or may not be 3/4 tsp. I eyeballed it, and everything turned out ok!

Flour, Baking Powder, Baking Soda, & Salt

Flour, Baking Powder, Baking Soda, & Salt

Step 3: In another large bowl, beat the eggs until frothy.  I wish I had a mixer for this.

Market Fresh Eggs

Market Fresh Eggs

Step 4: Combine sugar and butter in a pot on the stovetop and cook on medium heat until melted together.  Let the butter and sugar cool for a bit, then pour it slowly into the beaten eggs while whisking the eggs (to keep them from being cooked by the hot butter-sugar mixture!).

Combine sugar...

Combine sugar…

...and butter

…and butter

Cook until melted and combined.

Cook, stirring often, until melted and combined.

Step 5: Mash up enough bananas to fill 1 rice cooker cup.  For me, this was 4 small bananas.  Hopefully you have better kitchen supplies than I did – I mashed my bananas in a coffee mug.  So sad.

These old bananas are sweet like candy!

These old bananas are sweet like candy!

Mash those bananas!

Mash those bananas!

Step 6: Stir the bananas into the egg mixture until well combined.  Then add the flour mixture and stir until combined.

Banana Cake Batter!

Banana Cake Batter!  I had more than a few spoonfuls…

Step 7: Grease your rice cooker, then pour in the batter.

Before Baking

The batter, before baking

Step 8: If your rice cooker has a “cake” mode, use that.  If not, you can use the “cook” setting.  Rumor has it you can even use an old school single-button rice cooker (see original recipe for more info).  My cake baked for 35 minutes in our 10-cup rice cooker on “cake” mode and came out perfectly.  In the original recipe, it took 1 hour in a 5.5 cup rice cooker on “cook” mode.  What you should do is start checking it every 5-10 minutes once you start to smell the cake.  It’s done when you can insert a toothpick (or knife) in the center and it comes out clean.

Banana Cake is baked!

Banana Cake is baked!

Step 9: Immediately remove the insert from your rice cooker.  Let cool for about 5 minutes, then use the rice cooker spatula to loosen the cake around the edges.  Flip the cake out onto a plate, then use a second plate to flip the cake upright.

Look at that delicious crust on the bottom.

Look at that delicious crust on the bottom.

We cut the cake and ate it warm.  What a treat!

We cut the cake and ate it warm. What a treat!

We Want To Hear From You!

Have you cooked or baked anything in a rice cooker?  This is my first attempt at making anything but rice in a rice cooker, and now I’m hooked.  If you have any rice cooker tips or recipes to share, please leave us a comment!

 

 

Tuesday Taste: The Pad Thai Family

It’s official, we’ve found our favorite place to snag some good ‘ol Pad Thai in Chiang Mai.  Luckily, they’re just a 5 minute walk down the street from our apartment.  Their food stall is located on Suthep Road.  This super friendly Pad Thai joint is family run, and sets up outside a closed storefront every night at about 5pm for dinner.  Dad takes your order, Mom cooks the Pad Thai, and their kids help out around the food stall.

Here’s Pad Thai Mom and Pad Thai Dad, hard at work on that Pad Thai:

Mom and Dad, makin' that Pad Thai

Mom and Dad, makin’ that Pad Thai

 

Look at that Wok:

Check out the enormousness of that wok

Check out the enormousness of Pad Thai Mom’s wok

At this Pad Thai eatery, they serve your meal up with a big plate of romaine, bean sprouts, green onions, and lime.  It’s like getting a free salad with your meal.  They have a dine in option:

The "Eat In" option for Pad Thai

The “Dine In” option for Pad Thai

But we enjoy the takeout option the most because we could sit at home in our air conditioning and keep away from flies and mosquitos.  Take out Pad Thai comes wrapped up in banana leaves secured with a short stick, or as Pad Thai Dad puts it, “Thai Style Takeaway!”

Pad Thai takeout, wrapped up in a banana leaf

Pad Thai takeout, wrapped up in a banana leaf

And voila, here’s the deliciousness bursting forth from the banana leaf:

Dinner!

Dinner!

Whether you do dine in or get takeaway, it’s 30 Baht for your plate of Pad Thai, which is just south of a $1 US.  If that’s not a good reason for friends and family to book a $1,000 flight over to visit us, I don’t know what is.  Safe travels, friends!

Tuesday Taste: The Chicken Shack

IMG_4670

Kevin and I discovered a restaurant last week in the Nimman neighborhood of Chiang Mai that we’ve decided to make a part of our regular lineup.  We’ve lovingly dubbed it “The Chicken Shack”.  One of the toughest things to me about traveling abroad is being bold enough to walk into a restaurant that doesn’t have any sort of english menu.  Sometimes you get lucky and someone working there speaks a little English, but we’ve gotten pretty comfortable lately with pointing and using hand gestures to try to order our food.  We’ve also mastered the art of creepily lurking outside a restaurant, spying on people ordering and paying for food until we have a vague idea of what we’re getting ourselves into and how much it’ll cost us.  Sure, there are plenty of restaurants in Chiang Mai that cater to tourists, but we’ve found that in general those places are less tasty and can cost several times more than the little hole-in-the-wall places we’ve come to love.

The Chicken Shack is located on Nimman Soi 11, just west of Siri Manklajarn road.  You can smell the chicken grilling from a block away… just follow your nose.  For those with a less acute sense of smell, here’s a link to the Google street view.

IMG_4668

We went in for lunch and ordered a whole chicken with rice (the photo above is just my half!) for 150 Thai Baht (less than $5), plus a plate of Som Tam for 40 Thai Baht (just over $1).  This was definitely a little bit of a splurge for us now that we’ve grown accustomed to spending less than $2/person per meal.  Luckily, we were uncomfortably full for several hours, and we weren’t hungry again until maybe 8 hours after eating.  Actually, I’m not sure that’s a good thing, but it was a lot of bang for our 6 bucks!

IMG_4669

For folks unfamiliar with Som Tam, it’s made with shredded green papaya, garlic, fish sauce, tomatoes, peanuts, carrots, green beans, and spicy chilis.  It is one of our all time favorite Thai dishes.  If you don’t like spicy, be sure to try to let them know – this usually packs quite the punch!  For anyone wanting to try this at home, here’s a recipe.  My sister-in-law Beth will sometimes make a version of this using all shredded carrots instead of papaya – carrots make a great substitution when you live somewhere without access to good tropical fruit!

 

We want to hear from you

Have you had any crazy dining experiences on your travels?  Have you ever accidentally eaten something you normally wouldn’t be up for because of a language barrier?  What’s the most adventurous thing you’ve ever eaten?  Please leave us a note to let us know!

A Typical Day in Chiang Mai

What do you do all day when you’re unemployed, have zero commute, rarely cook your own lunch or dinner, and don’t even have to clean your own apartment?  In Seattle, we filled our time with 40-hour-per-week jobs, gardening, cleaning, cooking, running, and home maintenance.  While we miss some of those activities (especially gardening and running at Greenlake), it’s nice to have so much time on our hands here in Chiang Mai.  Some of our family and friends have been curious what we with ourselves all day.  Here’s how we choose to spend our time:

Wake up naturally (we’ve nixed the alarm clock) and have breakfast.

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If it’s a market day (every 3 days or so), we walk 10 minutes to the Ton Payom Market to get a fresh supply of fruit, veggies, eggs, and coconut milk.

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If it’s a gym day, we’ll hit the gym to run a 5k and do some weightlifting.

Before leaving the house, slather Melanie with sunblock.

SPF 50+, a necessity in Chiang Mai

SPF 50+, a necessity in Chiang Mai

If it’s not a gym day, you can probably find us at Kaweh Coffee all morning, where drinks are discounted until 11am. (News flash: living in an inexpensive country hasn’t made us any less frugal.)

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6 days a week, we have a delicious Lunch at Pun Pun, which is right by our apartment.  We walk around aimlessly on Wednesdays when they’re closed and try to find something that is lives up to their tasty standard.  Nothing ever does.

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If it’s not a gym day, we hit the pool after lunch for some sun and swimming.

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On gym days, we spend our afternoons out at coffee shops.  Kevin has been going through the latest iOS book, and I’ve been working through an online Ruby on Rails tutorial.  Usually, we spend a few hours having iced coffees at one cafe, then move to a second cafe mid-afternoon for a bubble tea or a cheap can of Leo beer.

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When we’re hungry for dinner, we walk around until we find something that looks tasty.

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After dinner, we head back to the condo for some reading and maybe a Game of Thrones episode.

We are usually asleep by 10pm here.  (I know I know, this is super lame, we go to bed SO EARLY over here.  I’m slowly chipping away at the sleep deficit caused by 6 years at Boeing, I should be good in about 6 months.  At least now that there has been a military coup and a curfew is being enforced from 10pm-5am, I have a legitimate excuse for going to bed early.)

We shake things up every now and then.  Sometimes, we’ll go the Saturday or Sunday evening markets for some shopping and dinner.

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Sometimes, we head to Vigie Sist cafe in the Old City so I can play their piano while we have fresh fruit smoothies.

Playing Piano at Vigie Sist

Playing Piano at Vigie Sist

Every other week, we head into the Old City to get 1-hour Traditional Thai Massages at Green Bamboo for 200 Baht (about $6).

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This is our life now in a nutshell!  Now that we don’t have any daily commitments or responsibilities, it’s become important to us to end the day feeling like we accomplished something, learned something new, or made progress in some way.  It’s liberating to be able to fully control our daily schedule, but boredom has become our worst enemy.  Our advice to others thinking about taking a mini-retirement like this is to figure out what you’ll accomplish each day if your trip won’t be packed full of activities.  If you’re not into software development, maybe you’ll spend your days learning about the local culture, visiting temples and talking to monks.  Perhaps you’ve racked up a lot of books on your reading list and will chip away at those.  Or maybe you’ll enroll in a language class or take frequent cooking classes.

We love to hear from folks reading our blog.  This week, we want to know where you’d go if you took a months-long mini-retirement.  How would you fill your newfound spare time?  Leave us a comment to let us know!

Tuesday Taste: Kanom Krok

Delicious Kanom Krok

Delicious Kanom Krok

Since I’m bound to run out of tips, but I’m still obsessed with alliteration, Tuesdays will sometimes be Tuesday Taste day instead of Tuesday Tips day.  I think most of our friends know that half the reason we’re over here is because of the food.  I love Thai food more than I love cake.  (I can hear a collective gasp from our friends and family in the U.S. from all the way across the ocean.  I know, it’s a shocking revelation.)  Hopefully you’ll enjoy seeing some of the delicious things we’re trying over here.  Last night, Kevin had an ant larvae omelette, but I forgot to snap a photo. DOH! This week, we stopped at a street vendor in Chiang Mai to have some Kanom Krok, which is a coconut custard dessert that is made in a Kanom Krok pan.  We’ve seen vendors make other tasty things in these pans as well, like cooked quail eggs and mussels balls (batter, mussels and veggies).  Here I am, below, in a time-lapse set of photos, looking very excited about the Kanom Krok.  Eight of these suckers cost us 20 Baht, or about 60 cents.  Worth every Baht.

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If you want to try to make these at home, you’ll need your own kanom krok pan, which I’ve seen on Amazon billed as an Aebleskiver pan.  I tried making these with my sister-in-law Beth not too long ago – we used this recipe which has potential, but we thought that the topping should only have called for 1/2 tsp. of salt!  If you don’t want to buy the custom pan, I’d recommend trying a mini-muffin pan, and seeing if you could alter the recipe to make these in an oven.  If anyone gives this a shot, please let me know how it goes!