Our Guide to Angkor Wat

Our Epic Journey to Angkor Wat

Our Wonderful Journey to Angkor Wat

Finally, the epic finale to my 3-part series about our trip to Cambodia – our Guide to Angkor Wat. This one’s going to be heavy on the photos and light on the words, perfect for coming off of the Christmas food hangover, right? I always appreciate a bit of light reading when I’m trying to work my way out of a dinner roll coma.

I already wrote about our time in Phnom Penh, and posted a little bit about things we did in and around Siem Reap, and this week I’m posting about the time we spent at Angkor Wat.

Angkor Wat, located just north of Siem Reap in Cambodia, is the largest religious monument in the world. It was first a Hundu Complex, later turned to Buddhist complex, and has an incredibly rich history full of occupations, wars, devastation, and restoration. Angkor Wat is probably the biggest draw for tourists who visit Cambodia; it’s so important, in fact, that it appears on the Cambodian flag!

Angkor vs. Angkor Wat (Or, Angkor WHAT?!)

Ok let me embarrass myself here for a moment. Before researching Angkor Wat, I didn’t realize that “Angkor” refers to the larger area north of Siem Reap that encompasses MANY temples, not just Angkor Wat. (Reminder: Wat means Temple.) Based on our visit, I was under the impression that there were about a gazillion temples in the Angkor Complex. (Yes, a gazillion. That’s a lot of temples.) I found out on the interwebs, though, that there are merely 1,000+ temples – still a lot, but a bit lower than I estimated.

Here’s a map of the Angkor complex, just to give you an idea of its enormousness:

Map of the Angkor Complex

Map of the Angkor Complex

Some Tips to Make Your Visit More Pleasant

Tip #1: Visit Early in the Day

Nearly 2 million people visit the temples of the Angkor Complex each year. During peak season (Nov-Feb), that means huge crowds. For proof, check out all these tour busses! PHEW.

SO MANY TOUR BUSSES NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!

SO MANY TOUR BUSSES NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!

Because of the crowds and because of the hot humid weather, we recommend leaving your hotel around 6am for Angkor, returning back to your hotel before lunch. You’ll beat a lot of the crowds, and you can spend your afternoon lounging by your hotel pool! Trust us, the temples are MUCH more enjoyable when some random woman isn’t knocking you in the head with her umbrella.

Tip #2: Spend Half Days at the Angkor Temples

Have you heard of snow blindness? (Official medical term: photokeratitis.) If you haven’t heard of it, it’s blindness caused by too much of a good thing: sunlight. It can happen to people who don’t have eye protection in snowy areas where light reflects so strongly off of the snow.

I’d like to present the world with a new, similar disease: temple blindness. (Official medical term: phototempleatitis.) Temple blindness is caused when you visit too many temples in a short period of time. Everything starts to look the same, you stop appreciating unique features of each temple, a general crankiness may set in and you might even begin craving chocolate. It’s a dire situation, people.

Temple Blindness in full force - check out the look on Kevin's face!

Temple Blindness in full force – check out the look on Kevin’s face!

Luckily, this can be easily avoided. We recommend spending just half-days at the temples, visiting no more than 4 spots per day.

Tip #3: Get a 3-Day Pass

As of December 2014, it costs $20 for a 1-day pass to Angkor and $40 for a 3-day pass. I wouldn’t wish a whirlwind marathon 1-day tour of the Angkor temples on my worst enemy – it would be absurd to try to cover enough ground to feel like you’ve seen enough to make your trip to Cambodia worth it. So you should definitely spring for the 3-day pass.

PRO TIP: If you purchase your pass after 5pm, you can enter Angkor on “Day 0″ to view sunset. When you leave after sunset, you still have all 3 days left on your pass!

Tip #4: Don’t Try To “Do It All”

With over 1,000 temples to choose from, it’s absolutely insane to try to see everything. Decide what you want to see: are you into intricate carvings? Do you prefer temples that are being eaten up by nature? Or are you more interested in the restoration projects? Do your research before visiting, and create your own customized itinerary.

On the other hand, you could just show up and let your Tuk Tuk driver take you on their standard tour. They tend to run two types of tours – a “big loop” or “small loop”. We recommend the “big loop” on the first day to get a taste for the size of the grounds (you may need to cut a few temples from the list if you want to keep things down to a half day!). If you’re into cycling, rent a bicycle and do the “small loop” yourself on Day 2. Then if you have anything left you want to see, book a tuk tuk driver for Day 3. Easy peezy.

The Big Loop and Small Loop at Angkor.

The Big Loop (green) and Small Loop (red) at Angkor.

Tip #5: Hire a Tuk Tuk Driver

The Angkor complex is huge! Clocking in at about 400 square miles, you can bet your bottom dollar that I did not want to explore on foot. The size, combined with the 95+ degree Fahrenheit temperatures and hellacious humidity convinced me that we should hire a Tuk Tuk driver for each of our temple exploration days. Plus, you can get a driver for just $15 all day, or a bargain basement price of just $7.50 for a half day! (We booked ours through our hotel.)

Tuk Tuks in Cambodia Are Cheap and Fun!

Tuk Tuks in Cambodia Are Cheap and Fun!

This is Mr. Kim, our Tuk Tuk Driver for 2 Days.

This is Mr. Kim, our Tuk Tuk Driver for 2 Days.

Our Favorite Temples

Angkor Wat: The Big Daddy of the Angkor Temples

At the top of Angkor Wat!

At the top of Angkor Wat!

The stairs to climb to the top of Angkor Wat. They open at 7:30am, and close sometime in the afternoon. Worth the climb!

The stairs to climb to the top of Angkor Wat. They open at 7:30am, and close sometime in the afternoon. Worth the climb!

We visited Angkor Wat immediately after sunrise, and it was practically empty!

We visited Angkor Wat immediately after sunrise, and it was practically empty!

Angkor Wat: A Statue Missing its Head

Angkor Wat: A Statue Missing its Head

Intricate Carvings at Angkor Wat

Intricate Carvings at Angkor Wat

Monkies at Angkor Wat

Monkies at Angkor Wat. Mr. Monkey is just picking at his wife monkey’s tushie. No big deal.

Monkies Playing at Angkor Wat.

Monkies Playing at Angkor Wat.

Angkor Wat at Sunrise

Many tourists who visit Angkor Wat choose to make the early morning pilgrimage to view the sun rising behind Angkor Wat. We did it, and thought it was great! The only bad thing? You need to leave your hotel by 5am. Because you have to arrive so early, it works best if you already have your Angkor Pass purchased.

Angkor Wat Sunrise

Angkor Wat Sunrise

Beware: Sunrise is Ridiculously Crowded!

Beware: Sunrise is Ridiculously Crowded!

PRO TIP: Be sure you stay at a hotel that will pack you a to-go breakfast! We stayed at the Villa Um Theara, and they were happy to have a to-go breakfast all ready for our 5am departure.

My To-Go Breakfast of Pancakes and Fruit! YUM.

My To-Go Breakfast of Pancakes and Fruit! YUM.

Word of warning - never order a sandwich in Southeast Asia. Kevin got the "Club Sandwich" for breakfast, and it was pureed meat with a ton of mayo on white bread. BOO.

Word of warning – never order a sandwich in Southeast Asia. Kevin got the “Club Sandwich” for breakfast, and it was pureed meat with a ton of mayo on white bread. BOO.

Ta Prohm: The One Being Eaten by Trees

Ta Prohm is the temple where part of Tomb Raider was filmed. Here we are, in front of the tree that was shown in the movie!

Ta Prohm is the temple where part of Tomb Raider was filmed. Here we are, in front of the tree that was shown in the movie!

Ta Prohm. Those are some ginormous tree roots!

Ta Prohm. Those are some ginormous tree roots!

We loved Ta Prohm because nature is swallowing it ever so slowly.

We loved Ta Prohm because nature is swallowing it ever so slowly.

GIANT Tree Roots at Ta Prohm.

GIANT Tree Roots at Ta Prohm.

When we pulled up to Ta Prohm, the kids were out in full force to sell trinkets, souvenirs, and tour books.

When we pulled up to Ta Prohm, the kids were out in full force to sell trinkets, souvenirs, and tour books.

Ta Prohm is Crumbling.

Ta Prohm is Crumbling.

Ta Prohm Peek-a-boo.

Ta Prohm Peek-a-boo.

Ta Prohm

Ta Prohm

Ta Prohm

Ta Prohm

Ta Prohm. When I see this picture, all I can think of is that the tree must be thinking "OMNOMNOM!"

Ta Prohm. When I see this picture, all I can think of is that the tree must be saying “OMNOMNOM!”

And here's Kevin, holding up the doorway at Ta Prohm.

And here’s Kevin, holding up a doorway at Ta Prohm.

Exterior of Ta Prohm

Exterior of Ta Prohm. This is Kevin’s “Let’s Rock this Temple” move.

Bantaey Kdei: The One with No Crowds

Bantaey Kdei wasn’t really on our radar until our friends Liz and Chris recommended it. We were delighted when we arrived to find hardly any other people there. Like Ta Prohm, this temple has been heavily impacted by nature, which is one of the most fascinating things to look at, for us. We highly recommend this one to anyone else who visits!

The front of Bantaey Kdei. See? No Crowds!  Sidenote: would YOU feel comfortable walking under this archway?!

The front of Bantaey Kdei. See? No Crowds! Sidenote: would YOU feel comfortable walking under this archway?!

The leaning walls of Bantaey Kdei.

The leaning walls of Bantaey Kdei.

Bantaey Kdei is falling apart. I feel like at one point there was a conversation where someone said, "It won't fall apart, I duct taped it!"

Bantaey Kdei is falling apart. I feel like at one point there was a conversation where someone said, “It won’t fall apart, I duct taped it!”

Bantaey Kdei Peek-a-boo.

Bantaey Kdei Peek-a-boo.

I couldn't believe they let us go into this room at Bantaey Kdei.

The look on Kevin’s face means “I can’t believe they let us go into this room!”

Inside the leaning room. Here, Kevin is saying "Don't push on THAT WALL."

Inside the leaning room. Here, Kevin is saying “Don’t push on THAT WALL.”

In previous decades, theft of pieces of the temples has been a huge problem. This statue at Bantaey Kdei is missing its head, possibly because someone took it! It's actually fairly rare to see a fully intact statue anywhere at Angkor.

In previous decades, theft of pieces of the temples has been a huge problem. This statue at Bantaey Kdei is missing its head, possibly because someone took it! It’s actually fairly rare to see a fully intact statue anywhere at Angkor.

Bantaey Kdei also has some really great stone carvings.

Bantaey Kdei also has some really great stone carvings.

Leaning doorway and walls at Bantaey Kdei.

Leaning doorway and walls at Bantaey Kdei.

Ta Som: A Mini Ta Prohm

Ta Som is a pretty small temple compared to the rest of the ones we visited. We stopped by mostly because of the archway at the far back of the Ta Som grounds is almost entirely swallowed up by a tree. This archway is easy to miss if you’re in a hurry, but worth the stop.

The Iconic Photo Spot at Ta Som

The Iconic Photo Spot at Ta Som

Preah Khan: A Giant Temple with a Lot Going On

Preah Khan may have been my favorite temple we visited. It is huge, has many lesser known passageways leading to things you might not see if you don’t hear about them from others. (Hint: follow a group with a guide! They may lead you to some of these fun places.)

One of the bridges leading into Preah Khan.

One of the bridges leading into Preah Khan.

Preah Khan

Preah Khan

And here's Kevin, busting down walls at Preah Khan.

And here’s Kevin, busting down walls at Preah Khan. HULK SMASH.

Preah Khan also has some hungry trees that decided to eat on its walls!

Preah Khan also has some hungry trees that decided to eat on its walls!

We liked to play a game called "pose like the carvings or statues." Here I am, imitating the dancing ladies in the carving above me. NAILED IT.

We liked to play a game called “pose like the carvings or statues.” Here I am, imitating the dancing ladies in the carving above me. NAILED IT.

One of my favorite things about Preah Khan is the mysterious Grecian building on its Northern grounds. Does anyone know what it is, why it’s so different, or why it might even be there? Nope. What a fun mystery!

The mysterious Grecian-style building that is nothing like any of Preah Khan's other structures!

The mysterious Grecian-style building that is nothing like any of Preah Khan’s other structures!

Bayon: The One with All the Faces

Bayon is probably the 2nd most popular temple behind Angkor Wat, and is completely overrun with crowds by 9am. In spite of the crowds, it’s still worth the visit. I think I would’ve loved this one if we arrived by 7am!

The Faces of Bayon Temple

The Faces of Bayon Temple

Bayon Temple

Bayon Temple

Hanging out at Bayon Temple.

Hanging out at Bayon Temple.

At Bayon Temple, you can climb to the top of the library in the Northeast corner to get a good view of it all.

At Bayon Temple, you can climb to the top of the library in the Northeast corner to get a good view of it all.

And here's Kevin, knocking down pillars at Bayon. (JUST KIDDING!)

And here’s Kevin, knocking down pillars at Bayon. (JUST KIDDING!)

Bayon has some of the most intricate carvings we saw, and they all tell a story about history. If you visit, grab a copy of Lonely Planet Cambodia for your Kindle so you can read all about the bas reliefs!

Bayon has some of the most intricate carvings we saw, and they all tell a story about history. If you visit, grab a copy of Lonely Planet Cambodia for your Kindle so you can read all about the bas reliefs!

Baphuon: The One with the Archway That Makes Me Think of Harry Potter

Kevin and I have an annual holiday tradition of re-watching the Harry Potter series around Christmas time. I know what you’re thinking – it’s hard to believe we’re about to enter our 30s. I’m not sure how to explain our obsession, other than to say that there is almost ALWAYS a Christmas scene in each HP movie where someone says “Happy Christmas.” And I love that.

Anyway, I had harry potter on my mind when we visited Baphuon. These arches remind me of the scene where Sirius dies and goes through the archway. (In hindsight, I also may have been delirious by the time we visited Baphuon.)

The Harry Potter Arches at Baphuon

The Harry Potter Arches at Baphuon

All kid-movie references aside, Baphuon is pretty interesting. It was smack dab in the midst of restorations when the Cambodia Civil War began. The temple was mostly disassembled when fighting began and the Khmer Rouge came to power, and all records of how the temple was supposed to be put back together were lost in the war. So when there was peace in Cambodia again, restoration teams were faced with a giant temple-sized puzzle that needed to put back together. I’m an amateur, but it looked like they did a good job to me!

Baphuon

Baphuon

The view from the top of Baphuon. Lots of stairs!

The view from the top of Baphuon. Lots of stairs! Go when it’s cool out!

Baphuon

Baphuon

The Terraces and Gates of Angkor Thom

Angkor Thom is the “walled temple city” area which contains Bayon, Baphuon, and the Elephant and Leper Terraces. Each of its four sides has roads entering and leaving from one of its huge stone “gates”.

Angkor Thom's North Gate

Angkor Thom’s North Gate. Check out the faces in the stone, so awesome!

Angkor Thom's South Gate

Angkor Thom’s famous South Gate

The Terrace of Elephants gets all the attention when it comes to Angkor Thom’s terraces. I didn’t think it was awesome enough to even warrant putting a photo into this blog post. But I really loved the Terrace of the Leper King! A false wall was put up in front of the original terrace wall, which means that the original carvings have been sheltered from wind and rain, and are in remarkably good shape.

Checking out the Terrace of the Leper King

Checking out the Terrace of the Leper King

Terrace of the Leper King. Aren't these stone carvings incredible?!

Terrace of the Leper King. Aren’t these stone carvings incredible?!

Pre Rup for Sunset

If you’re going to catch a sunset at Angkor Wat, Pre Rup is probably the best place to do it. We read on blog posts and heard from our Tuk Tuk driver that over a thousand people gather each night to watch the sunset from the hill temple Phnom Bakheng. At Pre Rup, the crowds are smaller and you watch the sun set over a more natural setting. The view isn’t as spectacular, the the lack of crowds probably makes up it. We didn’t get a very good sunset, though. BOO.

Waiting for sunset at the top of Pre Rup.

Waiting for sunset at the top of Pre Rup.

Photos That Make Us Chuckle

If you made it this far, you deserve a good laugh. We captured some photos that just make me chuckle – I hope they’ll make you laugh too.

The view from the top of Angkor Wat. Someone is napping in this photo - can you find him?

The view from the top of Angkor Wat. Someone is napping in this photo – can you find him?

This monkey was hanging out in front of Angkor Wat and WOULD NOT move off of the boardwalk. Then he started peeing. Silly monkey!

This monkey was hanging out in front of Angkor Wat and WOULD NOT move off of the boardwalk. Then he started peeing. Silly monkey!

Elephants ROLL OUT. Snapped this photo of the massive elephant exodus for their lunch break.

Elephants ROLL OUT. Snapped this photo of the massive elephant exodus for their lunch break.

This is at Bayon. I'm not sure why, but there is a LOT of lipstick on this statue. I'm not sure if someone put it there on purpose, or if women wearing red lipstick kiss the statue. Either way, I chuckled.

This is at Bayon. I’m not sure why, but there is a LOT of lipstick on this statue. I’m not sure if someone put it there on purpose, or if women wearing red lipstick kiss the statue. Either way, I chuckled.

Can you find the tour guide sneaking in a nap in this photo?

Can you find the tour guide sneaking in a nap in this photo?

At the South Gate of Angkor Thom, some statues are missing their heads. Naturally, we made sure to replace it for our photo.

At the South Gate of Angkor Thom, some statues are missing their heads. Naturally, we made sure to replace it for our photo.

Kevin is somewhere in this photo. Do you see him?

Kevin is somewhere in this photo. Do you see him?

We Want to Hear From You!

What’s the most amazing religious site you’ve ever visited? For us, Angkor Wat holds that torch now. We’d love any tips/suggestions on other places to travel, especially those located in Europe (we’re headed there next week!).

A Trip to Siem Reap, Cambodia

Because our time here in Southeast Asia is running out, we only were able to visit two cities on our recent weeklong trip to Cambodia. Last week, I wrote about our time in Phnom Penh where we stayed for 3 nights. We spent a little more time in Siem Reap (4 nights), and we were so glad we did! Most people visit Siem Reap to see neighboring Angkor Wat, but this small city has so much to offer travelers. It has great (cheap!) food, good nightlife, tons of inexpensive hotels, and even a circus!

I’ll be posting next week about Angkor Wat, but Kevin and I both thought Siem Reap deserved its own blog post. So what did we do in Siem Reap, anyway?!

We Enjoyed Getting There from Phnom Penh

I’ve read HORROR STORIES about the highway between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap. The trip is just 200 miles (320 km) long, but it can take anywhere from 6-8 hours to make the journey! Long stretches of the highway are just dirt roads with no asphault in sight. The dust billowed up around us and settled down on everyone and everything near the road. Even in sections where the road was paved, it was usually riddled with potholes, so cars were swerving wildly left and right all over the road to miss them. Though you’re supposed to drive on the right side of the road here in Cambodia, we were regularly all the way over on the left side!

If you’re willing to rough it and have a high tolerance for dust and heat, the trip can be made for as cheap as five bucks. However, we learned long ago that if you’re willing to fork out just a few extra dollars in Southeast Asia, the extra comfort is worth WAAAAAAAAAAYYYYY more than that extra money you spend. We were very comfortable, and managed to enjoy the trip! How could we NOT enjoy it, with things like this constantly rolling past our window:

Oh you know, just napping on top of a van on one of Cambodia's most major roadways.

Oh you know, just napping on top of a van on one of Cambodia’s most major roadways. There also appears to be a pirate in the back seat.

We booked seats with a fairly new company called Giant Ibis for $15/ticket. They have a big focus on safety (working seat belts are always a surprise in SE Asia!), and the bus had fantastic air conditioning and free wifi that worked occasionally. But the thing that sealed the deal was the promise of a free Croissant from Blue Pumpkin, a popular bakery chain in Cambodia. I’m such a sucker for a free pastry! Check out these photos of the Giant Ibis bus:

A Nice, New Giant Ibis Bus!

A Nice, New Giant Ibis Bus!

The Inside of our Giant Ibis Bus.

The Inside of our Giant Ibis Bus.

We even stopped at a nice little spot for lunch:

The Food Was Delicious!

The Food Was Delicious!

We reserved our seats online way ahead of time, so we had a great view from the first row. Here’s a short video I made of road trip:

 

We Stayed at a Hotel with a Pool

There’s no denying that the main draw to Siem Reap is Angkor Wat, but there’s not a person on this planet who can explore Angkor Wat’s temples for several days straight in the hot sunny weather without getting a little bit temple fatigued. We recommend spending the mornings touring Angkor Wat (leave by 6am to beat the crowds!) and spending the afternoons at your hotel pool. That means it’s important to splurge just a little bit to stay somewhere nice.

The Villa Um Theara Pool

The Villa Um Theara Pool

We picked the Villa Um Theara, which was wonderful! At just $31/night (including taxes and fees!), it felt like such a steal, especially for high season! We spent our mornings at the temples, and our afternoons by the small but spotless pool. An added bonus: the breakfast (included in our room rate) was AMAZING, and the coffee was stellar. I don’t think there’s another hotel in the world that could possibly have coffee as good as the Villa Um Theara. If there is, you must tell me.

"Western Breakfast" at most Southeast Asia hotels is usually white bread toast, a hot dog, and a bland egg scramble. But this... this magical breakfast... such a treat!

“Western Breakfast” at most Southeast Asia hotels is usually white bread toast, a hot dog, and a bland egg scramble. But this… this magical breakfast… such a treat!

Plus, who can resist a hotel where the towels are folded up so that it looks like two elephants high fiving:

How Adorable is This? Elephant High Five!!

How Adorable is This? Elephant High Five!!

We Drank a Lot More than Normal

Like I said in my post last week about Phnom Penh, we enjoyed Cambodia’s beer variety… a lot. Like this one – Kingdom Dark. A DARK BEER. IN SOUTHEAST ASIA. We were pumped:

Most beer in Southeast Asia gets a "Mediocre" rating from us. This beer gets more of a "Not Bad" rating.

Most beer in Southeast Asia gets a “Mediocre” rating from us. This beer gets a solid “Not Bad” rating.

How could we not drink a lot, there’s an area called Pub Street!

Pub Street in Downtown Siem Reap

Pub Street in Downtown Siem Reap

We also made a dangerous discovery on our last night in town. Viva Mexican Cafe sells margaritas for just $1.50. A DOLLAR FIFTY! ALL DAY! The margs were delicious and fairly strong, so it’s possible that I only remember the first half of the first one.

Mmmmmm... Tequila...

Mmmmmm… Tequila…

We Ate a Lot of Indian Food

For some reason, there is a TON of delicious Indian food in Siem Reap. I don’t know why, and I don’t care, I’m just hopping on the bandwagon. We only went out for eight meals in Siem Reap, and three of them were at Indian food restaurants.

Our top pick? Curry Walla. So good that we went twice. I might even say it was better than anything we found during our food escapades in Singapore’s Little India.

Curry Walla - A Thali plate with chicken costs just $5. Drinking water is free!

Curry Walla – A Thali plate with chicken costs just $5. Drinking water is free!

We also enjoyed India Gate, which was cheaper but not quite as tasty:

India Gate Restaurant in Siem Reap

India Gate Restaurant in Siem Reap

Here’s a peek at their Thali plate, just $3 for all of this!

$3 Vegetarian Thali Plate at India Gate.

$3 Vegetarian Thali Plate at India Gate.

We Ate Cupcakes

You caught me. I love cake. I especially love adorable miniature cakes. Whoever invented the cupcake was an absolute genius, and I would like to hug him/her. We stumbled across Blossom Cafe, a bakery that not only serves up tasty cakes, but also serves up a greater purpose. (Pun totally intended.) Their goal is to train Cambodians in baking and barista skills to help them find work.

Blossom Cafe in Siem Reap. Good Cupcakes for a Good Cause.

Blossom Cafe in Siem Reap. Good Cupcakes for a Good Cause.

Walking into their store was like walking into a little slice of heaven – the staff had on Christmas hats, and there was holiday music playing!

Holiday Hats in Blossom Cafe!

Holiday Hats in Blossom Cafe!

This spot has tasty cakes and good service – we were handed cold towels when we sat down and they gave us free drinking water with our cakes. Free drinking water in Southeast Asia is a big deal to me.

Our Tasty Cupcakes at Blossom Cafe.

Our Tasty Cupcakes at Blossom Cafe.

We Drank $1 Fruit Shakes

There’s something about the Mango fruit shakes in Cambodia that makes them taste amazing. I have a hunch it has something to do with the syrup and sweetened condensed milk they add, but I’d rather pretend it’s because the gal making them was so friendly. Here’s our favorite shake lady – seek her out if you’re ever in Siem Reap!

The Most Wonderful Fruit Shakes in Siem Reap

The Most Wonderful Fruit Shakes in Siem Reap

We Got Caught in a Huge Rainstorm

A lot of areas over here have inadequate drainage. Check out this rainstorm we got caught in, and how much water flooded the streets!

We Want to Hear From You!

We’re getting tired of the heat and humidity here in Southeast Asia. What’s the weather like right now in your neck of the woods?

Our Phnomenal Guide to Phnom Penh

We weren’t sure how excited to be for our recent trip to Cambodia. We spent 7 nights there (3 in Phnom Penh and 4 in Siem Reap), and were seriously questioning our decision to go to Phnom Penh based on a few blog posts we read before arriving.

We read through various accounts of purse snatching in Phnom Penh and one story about a woman having to shell out $200 to get her dropped iPhone back from a stranger. We even read one account of a French woman who was killed when a thief attempted to grab her bag, dragging her into oncoming traffic.

From what I gather, Cambodia has changed in the last few years. After an initial upswing in tourism while the country recovered from decades of violence, it now seems to be getting a little rough around the edges. While it’s not our top choice destination in Southeast Asia (Thailand will always hold that title with us!), it was definitely worth the trip.

When you visit Cambodia, you’ll learn about its years of violence and civil war, you’ll be warned repeatedly about the active land mines still scattered across the countryside, and you will likely see poverty almost everywhere you go. But you’ll also meet tons of wonderfully friendly Cambodian people who are making the most of life, especially considering they’ve been to hell and back in the last few decades.

Safir, Our Tuk Tuk Driver. One of the Friendliest People You'll Meet in Phnom Penh

Safir, Our Tuk Tuk Driver. One of the Friendliest People You’ll Meet in Phnom Penh!

Fortunately for us, we had a great trip to Cambodia. We were borderline paranoid about our safety, but I think it was for good reason. Our taxi driver that drove us from Phnom Penh airport warned us about purse snatchings after dark, as did our hotel staff, as did all the travel books. We managed to escape without any safety scares, though we did meet an Expat from Sydney in Siem Reap who had just been mugged! We enjoyed our time in Phnom Penh, though we think anything more than 3 nights would have been too much time there.

Alright, on to the interesting stuff – what did we do in Phnom Penh, anyway?!

We Drank a Lot More than Normal

We Have a Lot of Love for Cambodian Beer

We Have a Lot of Love for Cambodian Beer

Beer in Cambodia costs about half as much as beer here in Chiang Mai. They also have WAAAAAAYYYY more variety – most stores have locally brewed stouts or other dark beers! Naturally, we drank a lot on this trip, because seriously WHO can resist a fifty cent beer, AMIRITE?

We Went to the Russian Market (Toul Tom Poung Market)

The View from our Tuk Tuk in Phnom Penh

The View from our Tuk Tuk to the Russian Market in Phnom Penh

The Russian Market is named as it is because it was mostly frequented by Russian Expats in the years following the Khmer Rouge rule. Now, it is THE place to go to find almost anything. Stalls here sell everything from counterfeit money to peppercorns to raw meat to name brand clothing to noodle dishes.

Raw Meats in the Russian Market

Raw Meats in the Russian Market

The Bulk Foods Section!

The Bulk Foods Section! I Am a Sucker for Bulk Foods!

The Russian Market

The Russian Market

The Russian Market

The Russian Market

Oh You Know, Just Motorbikes Riding Through the Market...

Oh You Know, Just Motorbikes Riding Through the Market…

We read that most of the clothes on sale here are indeed genuine, and are from the various clothing factories around Cambodia. I needed a new bikini, which I easily found for just $8, and Kevin got a couple t-shirts for a couple bucks apiece. Fun fact: if you need to try something on, you either do it over the clothes you’re wearing, or you wrap yourself up in a sarong and try not to moon anyone!

We Visited the Toul Sleng Genocide Museum

S-21 Prison

S-21 Prison

Our day turned in a very somber direction when we visited the Toul Sleng Genocide Museum, sometimes referred to as the S-21 prison. The building was a former high school which was taken over by the Khmer Rouge in the mid 70s, and was used to imprison and torture people opposed (or even suspected of being opposed) to the Khmer Rouge rule. It’s reported that as many as 20,000 of the people imprisoned at S-21 were later murdered, including 2 Americans.

The Rules of S-21 Prison

The Strict Rules of S-21 Prison

If you don’t know much about the Khmer Rouge period in Cambodia’s history, I recommend picking up a book my friend Sarah recommended to me called When Broken Glass Floats by Chanrithy Him. Written by a woman who was a young girl when the Khmer Rouge came to power and started their harrowing rule, this book gives insight into what it was like to live under such a cruel regime.

S-21 Prison

S-21 Prison

A visit to S-21 will undoubtedly leave you emotionally raw, but we think it’s absolutely a must see. We walked down the quiet hallways, past windows covered with barbed wire, and through cells where prisoners were tortured and beaten. What really got to me, though, were the photos that were taken of each prisoner when they arrived to S-21. The Khmer Rouge was meticulous about record keeping, and the hundreds and hundreds of photos are a haunting visual of the emotions people were feeling when they were brought here.

We Saw the Royal Palace

The Royal Palace in Phnom Penh

The Royal Palace in Phnom Penh

After a glimpse into such a dark time in Cambodia’s history at S-21, the opulence of the Royal Palace can be a bit hard to take. It’s a complex of buildings used as the royal residence of the Cambodian King, and is the very picture of riches and luxury. The grounds are immaculate and beautifully landscaped. The buildings are covered in jewels, gold, silver, frankincense and myrrh. (Oops, Christmas slip there, ignore those last two.)

The Beautiful Grounds of the Royal Palace

The Beautiful Grounds of the Royal Palace

Normally, I would’ve been pretty impressed by the gilded buildings and sparkly things, but it’s hard to feel excited to see such extravagance when poverty is so apparent just yards away, or when you spent the morning learning about the regime that killed millions of its own people. In stark contrast to the well kept grounds of the palace, many of Phnom Penh’s streets are absolutely littered with garbage. Just one block north of the Royal Palace, entire families are sleeping in the streets. It’s rare to walk anywhere without encountering someone begging for food or money.

Nonetheless, the Royal Palace is a must-see sight in Phnom Penh, and we recommend making a visit. If nothing else, the stark contrast between what goes on inside and outside of the royal walls will open your eyes to how hard so many people’s lives here still are.

Phnom Penh's Royal Palace

Phnom Penh’s Royal Palace

Pagodas at the Royal Palace

Pagodas at the Royal Palace

The Royal Palace Even Had a Miniature Replica of Angkor Wat

The Royal Palace Even Had a Miniature Replica of Angkor Wat

And Here's Kevin, Pretending to Be an Elephant at the Royal Palace. Because That's How We Roll.

And Here’s Kevin, Pretending to Be an Elephant at the Royal Palace. Because That’s How We Roll.

We Hit the Rooftop Pool, a Lot

On a lighter note, we did manage to spend a lot of time relaxing at one of the TWO rooftop pools at our hotel. I’m not sure how Cambodia is SO HOT AND HUMID, even in late November when it’s supposed to be “cool season”. If you ever make the trip, Aircon and a pool are a must.

The Rooftop Bar Next to the Rooftop Pool

The Rooftop Bar Next to the Rooftop Pool

Added bonus? We had a view of the Royal Palace:

Here's Kevin Relaxing, and the Grand Palace in the Background

Here’s Kevin Relaxing, and the Grand Palace in the Background

We Went on a Self-Guided Walking Tour

I am absolutely a sucker for Self-Guided Walking Tours. Nothing makes me happier as a traveler than being able to roam around and read about the sights on my own time. My idea of Heaven is endless self-guided tours in cities all over Europe. (In unrelated news, I have the soul of an 80-year-old woman.)

We got a hold of the Lonely Planet walking tour of Phnom Penh and spent a morning seeing the sights. Aside from all the men yelling “TUK TUK?!” and the shop owners yelling “YOU BUY SOMETHING!”, we really enjoyed our tour. Here are a few photos from around Phnom Penh:

Our Tour Started with a Stroll up the River Promenade

Our Tour Started with a Stroll up the River Promenade

First Stop: Wat Phnom, a Buddhist Temple in the Center of Phnom Penh.

First Stop: Wat Phnom, a Buddhist Temple in the Center of the City. It Sits Atop the Only Hill in Phnom Penh!

The Chedi at Wat Phnom. I Loved How the Lions Look Pink!

The Chedi at Wat Phnom. I Love How the Lions Look Pink in the Morning Sunlight!

We Strolled past the U.S. Embassy, Where Christmas Lights Were Being Put Up!

We Strolled past the U.S. Embassy, Where Christmas Lights Were Going Up!

Last Stop, the Central Market. Here's an Arial View from the Neighboring Sorya Shopping Center.

Last Stop, the Central Market. Here’s an Aerial View from the Neighboring Sorya Shopping Center.

The Materials and Shape Reportedly Make the Central Market Feel Air Conditioned. I Might Disagree.

The Materials and Shape Reportedly Make the Central Market Feel Air Conditioned. I Might Disagree… It Was Hot!

Central Market Vendors

Central Market Vendors

I Love How This Gal Is Just Hanging out in Her Hammock.

I Love How This Gal Is Just Hanging out in Her Hammock at Her Seafood Stall.

Beautiful Flowers at the Central Market in Phnom Penh.

Beautiful Flowers at the Central Market in Phnom Penh.

We Celebrated Thanksgiving

Knowing we would be in Phnom Penh on Thanksgiving, I searched far and wide on the interwebs to find a spot where we could have a Turkey Dinner. Last year, we were in Vietnam for Thanksgiving. And while fish that’s grilled in a banana leaf is indeed delicious, it does not scream traditional Thanksgiving to me. So this year, we got a reservation at Alley Cat, an expat-owned restaurant in downtown Phnom Penh.

Look! A Table for Me! Turkey Awaits...

Look! A Table for Me! Turkey Awaits…

Alley Cat was not what we expected. It’s best described as a dive bar, and it definitely smelled like weed. Lynrd Skynrd was blasting over the speakers, the bar had its own dog, and the owner put soccer on the TV (he said that’s the closest thing to American Football he could find!). We felt as though we had teleported to Capitol Hill in Seattle! They even had bottles of Sierra Nevada Torpedo IPA!! (For $4.50 a pop, ouch!)

Like I Said, It Was a Dive Bar. Hence the Dark, Terrible Photo of the Wonderful, Delicious Beer.

Like I Said, It Was a Dive Bar. Hence the Dark, Terrible Photo of the Wonderful, Delicious Beer.

It turns out that the head cook’s mom is from Kentucky, so the man knew a thing or two about ample butter usage. We paid $12.50 each for a delicious, enormous dinner of turkey, stuffing, cranberry sauce, ham, mashed potatoes and gravy, sweet baked apples, roasted vegetables, green bean casserole, a roll (with ample butter on it), candied sweet potatoes, pickles, and a devilled egg. I was so excited, I was shaking, as evidenced by this terrible photo I took of the food:

An Awful, Blurry Photo of our Delicious Thanksgiving Dinner

An Awful, Blurry Photo of our Delicious Thanksgiving Dinner

And, of course, it came with pumpkin pie for dessert!

PUMPKIN PIE YESSSSSSSSS!

PUMPKIN PIE YESSSSSSSSS!

We Want to Hear from You! What Are You Thankful for This Holiday Season?

After the emotional roller coaster of visiting S-21, seeing the Royal Palace, and witnessing so much poverty on the streets of Phnom Penh, we were walking home from Thanksgiving dinner thinking about how lucky we are. We’re lucky to have such wonderful families and great friends, but we’re also lucky to be born somewhere with so much opportunity. What are you thankful for this Holiday Season?