Chiang Mai’s Yi Peng Lantern Festival

Yi Peng 2014 in Chiang Mai

Yi Peng 2014 in Chiang Mai

Chiang Mai’s annual lantern festival is a truly magical event. I figured it would be a pretty “neat” experience based on photos and videos I had seen online, but “neat” definitely didn’t do it justice. Attending Yi Peng changes you in some imperceptible way, sort of like seeing the ocean for the first time. It marks you somehow emotionally, or in my case, it left a small mark on me physically (see my note about safety below). We were fortunate enough to be in Chiang Mai for this year’s Yi Peng Lantern Festival, and managed to make our way up to Mae Jo to experience the magic.

What is Yi Peng?

Yi Peng (or Yee Peng) is a Lanna (Northern Thai) Festival of Lights that is usually held each year in November. Yi Peng literally translates to 2nd Month, and is always held on or near the full moon of the 2nd month of the Lanna Calendar. During Yi Peng, Sky Lanterns called Khom Loi are released to pay respect to Buddha. Launching one of these lanterns is believed to send a person’s bad luck and misfortunes away into the air, especially if it disappears from your view before the fire goes out.

We Released Two Lanterns

We Released Two Lanterns

The Yi Peng festival is held each year on the grounds of the Lanna Dhutanka Temple behind Mae Jo University. Usually, it’s about a 25-minute drive North of Chiang Mai, but the drive can take nearly three times as long before and after the festivities. People start to crowd into the grounds as early as 2pm to snag a primo spot, but the ceremony preceding the lantern release actually doesn’t begin until 6:30pm. Lantern release starts at about 8pm, and is followed by fireworks!

Check out these crowds!

Check out these crowds!

It’s a good idea to arrive early (by 3 or 4pm) to stake out a spot, because it gets ridiculously crowded.

When is Yi Peng?

Two separate Yi Peng lantern release events are held each year. The first event has no admission charge, and is primarily attended by local Thai people, expats, and tourists-in-the-know. Because it’s free, this first event is typically VERY crowded. A second event is held a week or two later specifically for tourists, and a limited number of tickets are sold for about $100 each to keep crowding down. The ticket price includes transportation to and from Mae Jo, dinner, a lantern, and even a seating mat and scarf. Plus you won’t have to contort yourself into strange positions in order to fit into the small space you staked out on the temple grounds.

There is a Ceremony happening up there somewhere!

There is a Ceremony happening up there somewhere!

The date of the free lantern release is typically kept under wraps until last minute in an attempt to limit the number of tourists who flock to Chiang Mai to attend. I can understand why they want to limit the number of tourists at the event, because I saw some people being pretty darn disrespectful while we were there (see my note about respect below).

For 2014, the free event was held on Saturday, October 24. The paid event is scheduled for Saturday, November 8 (get tickets here).

The Best Way to Experience Yi Peng

Kevin Holding our Lantern

Kevin Holding our Lantern

We opted to attend the free event because it’s so darn hard for us to stomach paying $100/ticket. That’s like 100 dinners for us here. CAN. NOT. HANDLE. Plus, I like to experience local traditions with the locals. I think it just means more to experience this Buddhist festival with people who actually know about the religious customs and traditions.

Yi Peng 2014

Yi Peng 2014

We’ve learned an important lesson here in Thailand, based loosely on the 80/20 Pareto Principle. In Thailand, you can usually spend just an extra 20% and increase your comfort level by 80%. We decided to splurge on a 500 Baht/person (about $15) round-trip air conditioned van ride to Mae Jo. And let me tell you, it was a HOT day, there was a TON of traffic, and we were thrilled to have aircon. We could have saved $3 each by booking round-trip in a Songathew. (A Songathew is a pickup truck taxi with bench seating in the covered truck bed.  Definitely no aircon, but plenty of dust and exhaust.) We could have saved $10 each by just flagging down a Songathew and haggling over price, but that would involve walking a few miles in the heat and haggling, two things guaranteed to turn me into a monster. We could have saved even more money by borrowing our landlord’s scooter, but I’m fairly certain I’d be making this post from a hospital bed right now if we had done that! Do yourself a favor, just pay up front for the round trip air-conditioned transport. You can thank me later.

Yi Peng 2014

Yi Peng 2014

Booking round-trip transport for Yi Peng is easy – any hotel reception desk or tour company can do it for you. We walked into a hotel near our condo the day before the festival and asked them to book it for us. The real trick is finding out the date – we would’ve missed it were it not for the ridiculous number of Chiang Mai Facebook groups I’ve joined.

A Note about Safety

Lantern Lighting 101

Lantern Lighting 101

If you’re skiddish about being in huge crowds, this event is not for you. If you’re afraid of fire, this event is definitely not for you. Each year for Yi Peng, people pack into the temple grounds nearly shoulder to shoulder. At some point after everyone crams in, hundreds of torches all throughout the crowd are set on fire, and people start to light their lanterns on these torches and send them floating, on fire, into the air. Some lanterns catch on fire, like the one in this video, which landed right next to us:

There are a very limited number of small exit points, and no one announces an emergency evacuation plan. In fact, the exits are so insufficiently sized that it took us about an hour just to get out of the temple grounds after the ceremony ended. To top things off, I even got burned at Yi Peng this year! Some people get torch wax on their lanterns before releasing them, so hot fiery flaming wax rains down as the lantern floats off into the air. I’m sporting a nice red burn on my arm this week, so that’s fun. At least I was consoled by fireworks:

So let’s recap: huge crowds + open flames everywhere + floating fiery lanterns + hot flaming wax raining down from the sky = SIGN ME UP, AMIRITE?! Crowd control and liability are treated a bit more loosely here. It’s good and bad; you just have to be sure you’re watching out for yourself. In spite of the crowds and the fiery wax falling from the sky, Yi Peng is still definitely worth attending. It’s truly magical – I just might recommend wearing a hat and long sleeves, or bringing a small fire extinguisher.

A Note about Respect

Yi Peng 2014

Yi Peng 2014

Yi Peng is a wonderful, spectacular experience, one I’ll never forget. Unfortunately, a lot of the tourists who attend either don’t know or don’t care that it’s a religious ceremony. It’s hard to enjoy the experience when the guy next to you is playing games on his iPad during the ceremony, with the sound on. It’s pretty annoying when everyone is standing up to take photos in spite of the announcer’s repeated attempts to get people to sit down.

Yi Peng 2014

Yi Peng 2014

We even saw a couple girls whose clothes were so skimpy that I was afraid I would see some boobs if they so much as sneezed or coughed. I can’t wait for the day when I’m an old, spunky grandma that can walk up to girls wearing shorty shorts and say, “You know I can see your ass cheeks, right?” Luckily, there are students stationed at the entrances who will turn you away if you’re not dressed appropriately. Shoulders and knees should be covered, but you get bonus points if you go traditional Lanna style and wear all white.

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13 thoughts on “Chiang Mai’s Yi Peng Lantern Festival

    • Oh no! Sorry you missed it Ian! I’ve heard that tickets are sold out now for the event on the 8th, too. Are you in Chiang Mai now? You can still get in on some of the fun if you’re here. The big parade is tonight, starting at Thapae gate at 6pm (according to this website) and heading towards the river. All along the parade route, you can buy and release lanterns, and the sky is just FULL of them all night long. Maybe not quite as full as the Mae Jo event, but you’re also less likely to get hot wax dripped on your arm.

      Also, we found that one of the least crowded spots to release a floating Krathong into the water is in this spot on Google Maps. I think it’s actually a police station, but you walk right in through the parking lot and can buy the little raft you can release into the river for just 20 Baht. It’s also nice to just hang out along the river, watch all the floating Krathongs, and watch the lanterns floating in the sky.

      Oh last thing, there are fireworks tonight set to happen at 9:30 or 10pm or so!

  1. Pingback: Celebrating Loy Krathong in Chiang Mai

  2. Hi Melanie, great article. My wife and I are planning to attend Yi Peng in 2015. I believe the lanterns are released the first day. We were wondering if there is much on in Chiang Mai on the second and third days of the festival? We want to be elsewhere afterwards or is it definately worth staying?

    • Hi Pritesh,

      Thanks! I’m glad you’re planning to go to Yi Peng in 2015, it’s such a fun experience. If you go to the free, local version of Yi Peng, there’s usually not a whole lot else going on in the days before or after the festival.

      However, if you decide to go for the Lantern Festival that is thrown specifically for tourists (the one that costs around $100), it usually coincides with the Loy Krathong festivities in Chiang Mai, so there is a lot of other stuff going on during that week. There are parades for Loy Krathong, there’s a beauty pageant, and people release floating “Krathong” rafts in the river. A lot of people also release sky lanterns around this time. There are fireworks, and on the actual night of Loy Krathong the whole town seems to be lit up with candles, lanterns, and lights.

      The pros of the tourist festival are that the date is announced way beforehand (whereas we only found out about the local one a few days beforehand), and it usually coincides with Loy Krathong festivities. The major con is the price tag.

      In 2014, the tourist lantern festival was November 8, and Loy Krathong was on November 6. In 2015, it sounds like Loy Krathong is November 25, but I don’t believe that the tourist lantern festival date has been announced yet. When it is announced, if you decide to go to that one, buy tickets early! They sold out last year!

      Happy Travels!
      -Melanie

      PS – sorry for my delay in responding! We just moved to Spain and things have been crazy this week.

          • Hi Fernanda,

            The dates for the free lantern release probably won’t be released until at least September of this year. The folks that plan the free lantern release event at Mae Jo try to keep the date under wraps until very very last minute so it doesn’t get too packed with tourists. (We didn’t find out until the day beforehand last year!)

            It does look like Loy Krathong is November 25th, which means that the PAID lantern release event will be sometime around that date… maybe as late as the 28th.

            I recommend visiting the Thaizer Site for the Lantern Release frequently to see if a 2015 date has been posted yet.

            The free event was on October 25th last year, which was earlier than anyone expected. Most of my expat friends in Chiang Mai were surprised to find out the date was so early. I actually found out last minute about it via the “I ♥ Chiang Mai Too” Facebook Group. You might consider joining a few Chiang Mai Facebook groups and watching for posts about it.

            Good Luck!
            -Melanie

  3. Hi Melanie,

    You’re so helpful and I’m grateful for this! I’m in the middle of planning my 30th birthday to Thailand and i’m trying to plan it around the free Mae Jo lantern release event. Just as you mentioned above i guess they do not release that information so early on. I will be in Chiang Mai, Nov 22 and wanted to leave the 25 for the phuket full moon party. (willing to change the dates around a little if i can catch the free ceremony). Do you know where’s the official site they will post the date? If I cannot catch the free one do you know when is the tourist one and where I can buy tickets? Also, does the tourist one have a ceremony with monks as well?

    Thanks again for an awesome blog!

  4. do you know anything about the lantern festival of 2015? I have read it was canceled. I am so hoping this is not true. It is one of the things I am most excited to do on my first trip to Thailand

    • Hi Stacey,

      Sorry that I haven’t responded! Life got busy once we moved back home and got jobs again, and I’ve been ignoring my blog. I, too, saw that the lantern festival seemed to be canceled in 2015 – a few of my friends who still live in Chiang Mai posted about that on their Facebook. Sorry that your trip may have been a disappointment because of it! Were you able to at least go to the paid tourist lantern celebration?

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